The 90s makeup look people search for when getting ready for a themed party or revisiting a trend that’s back in fashion is recognizable by one precise detail: the lip line is drawn with a pencil a couple of shades darker than the gloss applied over it, not in the same shade as the gloss. This difference in color, together with simple eye and cheek makeup, makes the result read as a nod to that era rather than just any lip look.
- Choose a pencil a couple of shades darker than the gloss you’ll apply over it, not one in the same shade.
- Draw the outline and lightly fill in the inside of the lips before applying gloss, so the color stays within the natural lip line.
- Apply the gloss from the center toward the edges, leaving the pencil line visible instead of covering it.
- Soft cheeks and a pale, glossy base on the nails complete the look without drawing attention away from the lips.
The instantly recognizable detail: lip liner darker than the gloss
In the 90s, one of the most recognizable ways to do lips was to pair a dark brown lip liner with a lighter lipstick or gloss applied over it, creating visible contrast instead of one uniform shade (source: Lip liner, Wikipedia). This is the difference in tone to recreate when the goal is a recognizable 90s makeup look, not a full application of dark lipstick all over the lips.
Alongside this combination, the grunge style of the same era also made dark, full-coverage lipstick a popular standalone choice (source: Grunge fashion, Wikipedia), but that’s different from the option described here: for the liner-and-gloss contrast most people look for today when they think of 90s makeup, the pencil stays darker than the product applied over it, rather than matching the shade of a full-coverage lipstick.
How to draw the lip line without smudging
Before drawing the outline, lips should be clean and lightly moisturized: a base that’s too dry makes the color apply unevenly, while one that’s too oily makes it slip. Start at the center of the upper and lower lips and work toward the corners, where the line requires more care because the skin is thinner and the edge less defined.
A pencil like Lip Liner - 23 has a firm, pigmented core that’s denser than the gloss applied over it: this is what allows it to define the area precisely and keep the next color within the natural lip line, rather than letting it migrate into the fine lines around the mouth (source: Lip liner, Wikipedia).
After drawing the outline, using the same pencil to lightly fill in the inside of the lips helps the gloss last longer, because it isn’t applied directly to bare skin and already has a base of color to adhere to.
If your lips are thin or already full: where to emphasize the outline
On thin lips, following the natural lip line closely keeps the contrast visible without looking unnatural; on lips that are already full, simply retrace the existing outline with the same care around the corners—there’s no need to alter the shape.
Gloss over the outline: light, not a second full-coverage color
Apply the gloss starting at the center of the lips and blending toward the edges, leaving the pencil line visible instead of covering it completely: this keeps the contrast visible all evening. A gloss like Lip Gloss - 03 adds shine and depth over the color already applied, without replacing it (source: Lip gloss, Wikipedia).
The gloss in this look isn’t meant to act like a full-coverage lipstick; its role is to add light and softness over an outline that’s already defined. That’s why the difference in tone between the pencil and gloss remains visible even after several hours, while lipstick applied all the way to the edge would almost immediately erase it.
Soft, natural cheeks that don’t steal the spotlight from the lips
A minimal amount of color on the cheekbones, blended well toward the temples, lets the lip line remain the focal point of the makeup. Applying too much, or choosing a shade that’s too bright, shifts attention away from the mouth and disrupts the balance that makes the look recognizable.
Choosing a shade close to your natural flush, rather than a bright pink or a strong bronzer, keeps the face in harmony with simple eye makeup: neutral eyeshadow, or even just a coat of mascara.
Nails: a pale, glossy base to complete the look
A pale, glossy base on the nails doesn’t compete with the lips and fits with the same idea of a luminous finish used for the gloss. A set like Nude, in a ballerina shape, gives you this kind of neutral base without adding a second point of color to the face.
Before choosing a shape, checking the size against your natural nail means you won’t have to adjust the edges too much after application: the set’s size guide explains how to compare sizes before you start.
If you like the contrast between pencil and gloss, choosing both as part of the same routine and adding a pale, glossy nail set makes the look easy to recreate for your next themed night out. If you’re still deciding between different eras, you can also compare the 1920s makeup look or the 70s makeup look, or the more recent 2000s makeup look, and browse more ideas on the blog.